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Simple Fish Recipes
On Saturday November 20, 2004, I demonstrated several ways of cooking fish at the Freight Station Farmers’ Market, using fish supplied by Beth Nowak, directly from her brother Jim, who caught the fish in Alaska. This is the latest in a series of fish demonstrations that I have done at the market since 2002 and this page is a compilation of most of the recipes that I have shown over the past few years.
Please do not be intimidated by any of these recipes. Some of them are more detailed than they probably should be. If you have any questions, feel free to call me at the restaurant. Without further ado, then, I give you recipes for:
Steamed Salmon with Chervil and Basil Oil Pan-Roasted Halibut with Sherry Vinegar Beurre Blanc Soy- and Lemon-Glazed, Sesame-Crusted Salmon Pan-Roasted Halibut with Green Olives and Almonds Pan-Roasted Halibut with Vinaigrette Fines Herbes
This simple chowder is perfect for any flaky, mild fish such as cod. It would also be equally good with clams, mussels, or salt cod. I have demonstrated this with both ling cod and halibut. The one constant is that people keep telling me that it is the best chowder they have ever tasted. Fish StockThere is no substitute for freshly made stock. Fish stock is the easiest of all stock to make, taking only about 20 minutes. For stock, use a white, non-oily fish. I use croaker because it is cheap and available most of the year. A fish frame is what is left of a fish once the fillets are removed. Clean the frames well of any guts and remove the gills from the heads. The following recipe will make a quart or two.
4-6 fish heads or 2 small fish frames 2 stalks of celery or equivalent celery trimmings 4-6 discarded outer leek leaves, chopped enough to fit in your pan 6-8 whole peppercorns 1 bay leaf and a bunch of parsley stalks, tied in a bouquet garni (or not) water to cover
Place all ingredients in small pan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer, but do not boil. Skim the top of the stock periodically. After 20 minutes of simmering, strain and reserve stock.
Tips for Fish Stock Keep fish frames in the freezer until you have enough for stock. Put discarded leek leaves, leek roots, parsley stems, carrot tops, celery leaves and bottoms, etc., in a bag in the freezer for use in flavoring stocks. Double or triple the recipe. Put 2 cups of finished stock in a quart freezer bag, squeeze out the air, and freeze. Fish and shellfish stocks do not benefit from long cooking. Unlike meat stocks, fish stock turns unpleasantly fishy with long cooking. If you do not want to make fish stock, you can substitute water, bottled clam juice, or the broth from steaming mussels. You can also use chicken stock, but there is no commercial brand of chicken stock I can recommend. If you are going to the trouble of making chicken stock, you can make fish stock a lot quicker. PS. The last time I made this chowder, I used water! Diced PotatoesThis recipe calls for precooking the potatoes to keep you from overcooking the celery. This step is optional.
1 lb small waxy potatoes, skins on, cut in 3/8" dice 1 t salt water to cover
Gently boil uncovered until the potatoes are just done, 7-8 minutes. These potatoes will keep covered in their water, for a week in the fridge. The Chowder1/4 lb (3-4 strips) thick-sliced rindless smoked bacon, cut in dice 1 T butter or oil 2 stalks celery, cut in dice 1 large leek, chopped medium 2 bay leaves leaves from 2 stalks fresh thyme (or a couple pinches of dried thyme) salt freshly ground black pepper precooked diced potatoes and their cooking water from above 2 c fish stock (substitute water, clam juice, broth from steaming mussels, chicken stock) 1 c heavy cream 1 lb white flaky fish in 3/4" dice
Place the diced bacon and the butter or oil in a heavy saucepan over medium high heat and cook until the bacon is rendered and brown, stirring from time to time. Increase the heat to high and add the celery, bay leaves, and thyme leaves, sautéing until the celery is translucent, about a minute. Add the leeks, a sprinkle of salt, and a couple grinds of pepper. Cook until the leeks are soft, about another minute. Add the potatoes and their liquid and the fish stock. Bring back to the boil and reduce to a simmer. Add the cream and bring back to a simmer.
If you try to cut calories by substituting milk for cream, the milk may well curdle and separate because of a lack of fat content. Add the fish, and let simmer until just done, no more than about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Garnish with fresh thyme leaves. Vegetable Prep Tips To dice celery, cut lengthwise in 3-4 strips, then crossways. To clean a leek, cut off each leaf at the point where it becomes tough and stringy. The more towards the center of the leek, the higher this point is. The inner leaves are almost totally edible. Insert the tip of a knife through the base of the leek above the root and split apart lengthwise, leaving the root intact. Rotate the leek and do this once or twice more depending on the size of the leek. Wash thoroughly under running water to remove any mud or sand in the leek and be certain to rinse the grit off your knife. Chop crossways. Save the roots for stock. Basil Oil2 handfuls of basil leaves (about 2 cups, loosely packed) 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Place basil and oil in a blender. Blend until completely smooth, about 2-3 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer. Let stand in bowl. You can refrigerate or not. If you do not refrigerate, use within a couple of days. If you refrigerate, you will need to let the oil warm up on the counter before using again—it solidifies in the fridge. Do not warm on the stove or microwave or you will cook the basil and that is not what you want. Warning: basil is an aggressive herb—a little oil goes a long way.
Steamed Salmon with Chervil and Basil Oil
This is such an easy dish to make on the grill, with almost no cleanup, because it is cooked in aluminum foil. Chervil, pronounced CHUR vull, is one of the classic herbs of French cooking, called cerfeuille, but is little known and not widely available in the United States. It has a delicate licorice or tarragon-like flavor that goes extremely well with fish (and is perfectly lovely in mesclun salads). It is easy to grow at home in the spring and fall in a cool, shaded location. If you cannot beg or steal some, you can substitute finely shredded basil leaves (called a chiffonade) or fresh tarragon or dill.
aluminum foil salmon filets or steaks chervil (or dill or basil chiffonade) basil oil salt freshly ground pepper
Lay the salmon on a double layer of foil. Sprinkle with salt (sea salt is best) and a grind or two of black pepper. Lay a branch of chervil on each piece of fish. Drizzle on a teaspoon or two (just a slight amount) of basil oil. Wrap and place in a hot oven or grill until done. Cook to taste: a half-inch piece of salmon will be done in five minutes, and medium rare in 3-4. Remove the cooked herbs from the top, drizzle with a bit more basil oil, and garnish with freshly plucked chervil leaves.
This dish is in such demand at the restaurant that even when it’s not on the menu, customers ask for it anyway. I created it so long ago that I am no longer clear about its origin.
1 T cooking oil 2 snapper, or other white fish fillets Wondra flour ½ c diced tomatoes 2 artichoke hearts, quartered 1 T basil chiffonade ½ t garlic, minced 1 T capers pinch red pepper flakes pinch salt pinch black pepper ¼ c white wine
Preheat your oven to very hot. Heat a sauté pan over high heat and film with the oil. Dredge the snapper fillets in Wondra and sauté on one side about 2 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl. Flip the snapper and cook another 2 minutes or until well browned. Place in the oven and continue to cook for a total of 10 minutes per inch of thickness, including the 4 minutes on top of the stove.
Remove from the oven and pour off any excess oil. Add the bowl of the remaining ingredients. Cook over high flame until the wine has nearly evaporated. Taste for seasoning. Serve immediately.
Pan-Roasted Halibut with Sherry Vinegar Beurre Blanc
This simple but classic French sauce with a twist is always a crowd favorite and goes extremely well with pan-seared diver scallops, as well as halibut or any other white, flaky fish.
halibut fillets or steaks extra virgin olive oil salt freshly ground black pepper 2 shallots, minced sherry vinegar 1/4 lb cold butter, in 1/2" cubes
If you have a thick piece of halibut, over 3/4", preheat the oven to very hot, 4-500 degrees. Cube the butter and leave in the fridge until just before finishing the sauce.
In a classic beurre blanc, white wine vinegar and minced shallots are cooked and reduced, and then the sauce is mounted with butter. In this version, the shallots are sautéed and barely caramelized, before adding the very nutty sherry vinegar. If you do not have sherry vinegar, you can use any good quality white wine vinegar, but you will miss the nutty flavor that works so well with the caramelized shallots. There is no appropriate substitute for shallots, but fortunately, they are readily available in the grocery store.
Heat an ovenproof sauté pan over very high heat until it is very hot. Pat the fish with paper towels to make sure that they are dry. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Film the pan with olive oil. Cook the fish until it crusts on one side, about two minutes, and then flip it and crust the other side. If the fish is thick, it will not be done at this point and you will remove the pan to the hot oven until the fish is just barely done.
Remove the fish to a plate, put the pan back on the burner over high heat, and add the shallots. Keep stirring the shallots until they are just caramelized. Add a couple splashes of vinegar to the pan, maybe a couple of tablespoons, and stir well to remove all the caramelization from the bottom of the pan. Cook for perhaps a minute and then remove from the heat. Add the cold butter to the hot sauce and stir until the sauce is thickened. Put the fish back in the sauce for a few seconds to make sure that it is warm. Serve immediately. Fresh parsley would be a nice garnish.
Tips for Cooking Fish When cooking fish, it is always better to undercook it than overcook it. I prefer my fish more on the medium rare side than the well-done side. When fish is cooked, it flakes apart and the flesh becomes opaque. Take a peek at the center by using a knife or a spatula to lift up a flake. With experience, you will be able to judge doneness by touch and by intuition. Fish will keep cooking even off the heat, so take it off when the center of the thickest part is not quite opaque. The more even in thickness the fish, the more evenly it will cook. If your fish is not of fairly uniform thickness, consider cutting it into more uniform pieces. Soy- and Lemon-Glazed, Sesame-Crusted Salmon
I have to admit that I made this up as I was making it.
2 T honey 1 t light soy sauce or to taste juice of 1 lemon 2 T oyster sauce drizzle of sesame oil salmon fillets white sesame seeds extra virgin olive oil
Mix the honey, soy, lemon juice, oyster sauce, and drizzle in a few drops of sesame oil. Don't overdo the sesame oil—a little goes a very long way. Adjust to taste with more of the ingredients as you see fit.
Put some of the glaze in a shallow dish and put the sesame seeds in another shallow dish. Using one hand, dredge the salmon in the glaze. Let the excess glaze drip off the salmon and then transfer to the sesame seeds. With the other hand, coat with sesame seeds and press in lightly. Repeat for all the fish.
Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat and film with oil. Sauté the fish, moderating the heat so that the sesame seeds brown but do not burn. Turn the fish when half-cooked and cook the other side. Salmon is best when it is still a bit rare in the middle. Serve with a drizzle of glaze and garnish with finely chopped green onions.
Note: we now do the same preparation at the restaurant using only oyster sauce to make the sesame seeds adhere to the salmon.
Oriental Ingredients Light soy sauce means a less concentrated sauce, not a reduced salt sauce. In fact, it is saltier than dark soy sauce. Pearl River Bridge is a good brand and is available at most oriental groceries, as is oyster sauce. In picking oyster sauce, choose one made from real oysters. For sesame oil, you want the dark kind, from roasted seeds. Kame is the most popular brand and is excellent. While you can buy sesame seeds at the local grocery store, they are far cheaper at an Indian grocery or bakery supply. These ingredients are also available on the Internet.
It is incredible what a little bit of brine does for salmon. It improves both the flavor and the texture immensely. This recipe is so easy that nobody should miss doing it.
1/4 c kosher (or other) salt 1 T sugar freshly ground black pepper fresh dill weed 1 quart of water 1 gallon resealable bag salmon fillets
Sixty to ninety minutes before you are ready to grill the fish, chop a little dill weed and put it in the bag with the salt, sugar, and a few grinds of pepper. Seal and shake to mix the brine. Add the fish. Let the fish brine in the refrigerator for 60-90 minutes. Remove from brine, drain slightly, and grill.
Pan-Roasted Halibut with Green Olives and Almonds
I though this up as I was standing over the grill cooking the sesame-crusted salmon. This is very simple and tasty.
halibut salt freshly ground black pepper extra virgin olive oil 1/2 c chopped green olives 1/2 c toasted slivered almonds 2 or more cloves garlic, minced 1 medium tomato, peeled and diced 1/2 c dry white wine
If you have a thick piece of halibut, over 3/4", preheat the oven to very hot, 4-500 degrees.
Heat an ovenproof sauté pan over very high heat. Pat any excess moisture off the halibut with paper towels and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Film the pan with olive oil and sauté the fish until it crusts on one side, about two minutes, and then flip it and crust the other side. If the fish is thick, it will not be done at this point and you will remove the pan to the hot oven until the fish is just barely done.
Remove the cooked fish to a plate, put the pan back on the burner over high heat, and add the olives, toasted almonds, garlic, and tomato. Cook for just a minute, stirring well, to cook the garlic and then add the white wine. Reduce the wine by half, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and then return the fish to the pan, spooning the sauce over, for just a few seconds while the fish rewarms.
Pan-Roasted Halibut with Vinaigrette Fines Herbes
Fines herbes has come to mean any combination of finely chopped fresh herbs. In classic French cooking, it means specifically the combination of chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon, which is what I use here. Be careful with tarragon—it is wonderful with fish, but like oregano, it is aggressive and a little goes a long way.
I made this up as basically an eggless sauce Tartare, so it calls for cornichons, the tiny sour pickles that are available in many specialty shops. You can omit them, but they add a vinegary punch.
In a classic vinaigrette, the ratio of oil to vinegar is 3:1. Some people prefer 4:1 or even 5:1. If you have very strong vinegar, say 6% or higher acidity, you might want to add a splash of water to dilute it. Vinaigrette Fines Herbes2 t Dijon mustard 2 T white wine, Sherry, or Champagne vinegar 1 sprig of tarragon, leaves plucked and chopped fine 3 sprigs of chervil, chopped fine 2 T finely chopped chives 2-3 sprigs of parsley, leaves plucked and chopped fine 6-8 cornichons, minced 6 T extra virgin olive oil salt freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, add the mustard and vinegar, stir well with a fork or whisk until the mustard is dissolved. Add the herbs, cornichons, a sprinkle of salt, and a couple of grinds of pepper. Slowly drizzle the olive oil into the vinegar base, constantly whipping with your fork or whisk. Make sure the sauce is emulsified (thickened) before adding more oil.
Taste for tartness. Add more oil, a few drops of water, or a pinch of sugar if too tart for your liking, although this sauce should be fairly tart to contrast with the fish or as a dressing for bitter greens. If used as a dressing for mild greens, you may not want it as tart. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Pan-Roasted Halibut
halibut fillets salt freshly ground black pepper extra virgin olive oil
If you have a thick piece of halibut, over 3/4", preheat the oven to very hot, 4-500 degrees. Heat an ovenproof sauté pan over very high heat. Pat any excess moisture off the halibut with paper towels and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Film the pan with olive oil and sauté the fish until it crusts on one side, about two minutes, and then flip it and crust the other side. If the fish is thick, it will not be done at this point and you will remove the pan to the hot oven until the fish is just barely done. Once the fish is done, remove the pan from the oven or flame and pour over a little bit of the vinaigrette. Let the sauce reduce until it stops bubbling. I suggest dressing a bitter green salad with some of the vinaigrette, putting the salad on a dinner plate, placing the halibut over the salad, and drizzling a little more vinaigrette over the fish. Chive blossoms would make a beautiful garnish.
This is a preparation that I use often for pork tenderloin and sometimes for chicken breasts. And, it works really well for fish. Ling cod works very well, but catfish might even be better, because of its fat content and because it holds together so nicely on the grill. This is also exceptional for a whole fish that you want to do on the grill, such as a snapper. The meat is marinated in herbs and olive oil and then grilled. Pork tenderloin and chicken should marinate for at least overnight and preferably 2-3 days. Fish fillets should only go for about an hour before cooking. A whole fish needs to be slashed vertically and a little on the diagonal so that you can rub the marinade into the cuts, and it probably wants a couple hours in the marinade. This is one of those recipes where quantity just doesn't matter. The herb mix varies every time I make it, depending on the meat that I am cooking and more importantly, what herbs are in the garden at the time. I literally go to the garden and grab a handful of fresh herbs and that's what you should do. Use your imagination. In the winter, my mix is basically parsley and thyme—still good. Be wary of aggressive herbs such as sage, oregano, rosemary, and tarragon. A little goes a long way. My herb mix is almost always half parsley and a quarter chives. Beyond that, I like tarragon and chervil with fish, a little sage with pork, and a little oregano with chicken. I love cilantro, but not in this. 2 big parts of parsley 1 big part of chives and/or garlic chives a couple of thyme branches a small handful of Italian basil and/or Thai basil a few rosemary needles a little as appropriate of sage, tarragon, chervil, oregano, lavender, dillweed 1 head, more or less, of garlic freshly ground pepper extra virgin olive oil cod fillets salt
Peel the garlic, pluck the herbs from woody stems, and then chop everything medium fine with a big knife. Pour a bit of olive oil into a resealable bag and then add the herbs and a few grinds of pepper. Close the bag and mix well by moving the herbs and oil around. You should have a fairly thick paste. Add the fish, close the bag, and massage the herbs all around the fish. Add more oil if necessary.
Marinate under refrigeration for an hour to 90 minutes. Remove from the bag, let the excess oil drip off the fish, and place directly on the grill on medium high heat. Grill until halfway done and flip. You can also turn each side 90 degrees to get crisscross grill marks if desired. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fish should be served immediately with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Note that pork tenderloins need to cook on three sides and are best when still pink inside. They benefit from resting for 7-10 minutes off the heat before slicing. Chicken should rest 3-4 minutes before slicing. |
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